Net worth is everything you own minus everything you owe. It’s a single number that captures your complete financial picture - and tracking it over time reveals whether you’re actually making progress toward your goals.
Building a net worth tracker in Google Sheets takes about 20 minutes for the initial setup. After that, monthly updates take just five minutes once you know where to find your balances. The simplicity is intentional - net worth tracking is just arithmetic, and the spreadsheet handles the math so you can focus on the numbers that matter.
Prefer a ready-made solution? The Net Worth Tracker comes with everything below already configured - categories, formulas, charts, and historical tracking. Copy it to your Google Drive and start entering numbers immediately.
Understanding the Basic Structure
A net worth tracker needs only three components: a list of assets with their current values, a list of liabilities with their balances, and one subtraction formula. Everything else - the formatting, the categories, the charts - is optional polish that you can add over time.
This simplicity is what makes net worth tracking sustainable. Unlike detailed budget tracking that requires categorizing every transaction, net worth tracking asks for just one number per account, once per month. That low friction is why people stick with it.
Setting Up Your Spreadsheet
Start by creating a new Google Sheet and giving it a name you’ll recognize later - something like “Net Worth Tracker” or “Personal Finances.” The name doesn’t affect functionality, but you’ll thank yourself when searching for it six months from now.
For the layout, set up your header row like this:
| A | B | C | D | E | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Account | Type | Jan 2026 | Feb 2026 | Mar 2026 |
Row 1 contains your headers. Column A holds account names, Column B identifies whether each row is an asset or liability (useful for filtering later), and Columns C onward represent each month. You’ll add new month columns as time passes.
Listing Your Assets
Starting in row 2, add every asset you own. Being thorough here matters - the goal is to capture your complete financial picture, not just the accounts you think about regularly.
Cash and bank accounts form the foundation of most people’s assets. Include your primary checking account where your paycheck lands, any savings accounts (including that high-yield savings account you opened and forgot about), and your emergency fund if it’s held separately. These are your most liquid assets - money you could access today if needed.
Investment accounts typically make up the largest portion of net worth for people who’ve been working for several years. This category includes your 401(k) or 403(b) through work, any Traditional or Roth IRAs you’ve opened independently, taxable brokerage accounts where you invest outside of retirement accounts, and Health Savings Accounts (HSAs) if you have one. For each investment account, use the total current balance - not just what you’ve contributed, but including any gains or losses.
Property and physical assets round out the picture. If you own a home, include its current market value (not what you paid for it). For vehicles, use the current resale value rather than the purchase price - cars depreciate, and your tracker should reflect reality. Some people include other valuable items like jewelry or collectibles, though these can be harder to value accurately.
In Column B, mark each of these rows as “Asset.” This labeling becomes useful if you later want to filter or create subtotals by category.
Here’s what your asset section might look like:
| A | B | C | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Account | Type | Jan 2026 |
| 2 | Checking | Asset | |
| 3 | Savings | Asset | |
| 4 | Emergency Fund | Asset | |
| 5 | 401(k) | Asset | |
| 6 | Roth IRA | Asset | |
| 7 | Brokerage | Asset | |
| 8 | Home | Asset | |
| 9 | Vehicle | Asset | |
| 10 | Total Assets |
After your last asset row, add a row labeled “Total Assets” - this is where your first formula will go.
Listing Your Liabilities
Below your Total Assets row, leave a blank row for visual separation (row 11 in our example), then start listing everything you owe.
Mortgage debt is typically the largest liability for homeowners. Use the current outstanding balance from your most recent statement, not the original loan amount. As you make payments, this number decreases - and watching that happen over months and years is part of what makes tracking worthwhile.
Vehicle loans follow the same principle - enter the current payoff amount, which you can usually find in your lender’s online portal. If you have multiple car loans, list each separately rather than combining them.
Student loans can be tricky if you have multiple loans with different servicers. Consider either listing each loan separately (more accurate) or grouping them into one line (simpler to maintain). Either approach works as long as you’re consistent month to month.
Credit card balances should reflect what you actually owe, not your credit limit. If you pay your cards in full each month, your balance might be zero or close to it - that’s fine. If you carry balances, track the total across all cards.
Other debts might include personal loans, medical debt, or money borrowed from family. Include anything where you have an obligation to repay.
Here’s how the liability section continues from the assets:
| A | B | C | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 11 | |||
| 12 | Mortgage | Liability | |
| 13 | Auto Loan | Liability | |
| 14 | Student Loans | Liability | |
| 15 | Credit Card | Liability | |
| 16 | Total Liabilities | ||
| 17 | |||
| 18 | Net Worth |
Mark each liability row as “Liability” in Column B. After your last debt, add a row for “Total Liabilities,” then leave a blank row and add your final “Net Worth” row. This is where the magic happens.
Adding the Formulas
Your spreadsheet needs just three formulas to function. Based on the layout above, here’s exactly what to enter:
For Total Assets (cell C10), use a SUM formula that adds up all your asset values from rows 2 through 9:
=SUM(C2:C9)For Total Liabilities (cell C16), create a similar SUM for your debt rows 12 through 15:
=SUM(C12:C15)For Net Worth (cell C18), subtract Total Liabilities from Total Assets:
=C10-C16Here’s what your formulas look like in the spreadsheet:
| A | B | C | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 | Total Assets | =SUM(C2:C9) | |
| 16 | Total Liabilities | =SUM(C12:C15) | |
| 18 | Net Worth | =C10-C16 |
Once these formulas work correctly for January (Column C), select all three formula cells and drag them horizontally to copy them into Column D (February), Column E (March), and beyond. Google Sheets automatically adjusts the column references, so February’s formulas will reference Column D values, March will reference Column E, and so on.
Entering Your Numbers
The first time you populate your tracker takes the longest because you need to gather balances from multiple sources. Here’s where to find each type:
Bank account balances appear on your online banking dashboard or monthly statements. Use the current balance, which may differ slightly from available balance if you have pending transactions.
Investment account balances require logging into each provider - Fidelity, Vanguard, Schwab, or whoever holds your accounts. Use the total account value, which includes your contributions plus any investment gains or losses.
Retirement account balances work the same way. If your 401(k) is through your employer, you might access it through a separate portal than your other accounts. The number you want is the total current value.
Home values are estimates, and that’s okay. Zillow, Redfin, or your county assessor’s website can provide rough figures. Being conservative here - using a number slightly lower than the highest estimate - prevents you from overestimating your wealth.
Vehicle values come from Kelley Blue Book or similar services. Look up your specific make, model, year, and condition to get a realistic resale value.
Debt balances appear on your most recent statements or in your lenders’ online portals. Many lenders show a “current payoff amount” that’s more accurate than the statement balance if you’ve made recent payments.
For all these numbers, rounding to the nearest dollar is fine. The precision of tracking to the penny doesn’t add value for net worth calculations - you’re looking at the big picture, not reconciling a checkbook.
A Complete Example
Here’s what a filled-out tracker looks like for someone in their early 30s:
| A | B | C | D | E | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Account | Type | Jan 2026 | Feb 2026 | Mar 2026 |
| 2 | Checking | Asset | $5,000 | $4,800 | $5,200 |
| 3 | Savings | Asset | $12,000 | $12,500 | $13,000 |
| 4 | Emergency Fund | Asset | $15,000 | $15,000 | $15,000 |
| 5 | 401(k) | Asset | $85,000 | $86,200 | $87,500 |
| 6 | Roth IRA | Asset | $22,000 | $22,300 | $22,800 |
| 7 | Brokerage | Asset | $8,000 | $8,150 | $8,400 |
| 8 | Home | Asset | $350,000 | $350,000 | $352,000 |
| 9 | Vehicle | Asset | $18,000 | $17,800 | $17,600 |
| 10 | Total Assets | $515,000 | $516,750 | $521,500 | |
| 11 | |||||
| 12 | Mortgage | Liability | $280,000 | $279,500 | $279,000 |
| 13 | Auto Loan | Liability | $12,000 | $11,600 | $11,200 |
| 14 | Student Loans | Liability | $35,000 | $34,700 | $34,400 |
| 15 | Credit Card | Liability | $2,500 | $1,800 | $1,200 |
| 16 | Total Liabilities | $329,500 | $327,600 | $325,800 | |
| 17 | |||||
| 18 | Net Worth | $185,500 | $189,150 | $195,700 |
This example shows net worth growing from $185,500 in January to $195,700 in March - a $10,200 increase over three months. Notice how:
- The checking account fluctuates (normal for day-to-day spending)
- Savings increases steadily (regular contributions)
- Investments grow (market gains plus contributions)
- The vehicle depreciates (losing $200/month)
- All debts decrease (payments being made)
Negative net worth is also common and equally worth tracking - if you’re just starting out, have significant student loans, or recently bought a home, your liabilities might exceed your assets. That’s not a problem to hide from; it’s a starting point to measure progress from. Watching -$45,000 become -$40,000 become -$35,000 can be just as motivating as watching a positive number grow.
Adding Visual Progress with Charts
Watching numbers change month over month works, but seeing a chart trend upward over time provides a different kind of motivation. Adding a basic chart takes just a minute.
To create a net worth chart:
- Select cells C1 through E1 (month headers) and C18 through E18 (net worth values)
- Go to Insert → Chart
- Choose “Line chart” from the chart types
Google Sheets will create a line chart showing your net worth trend. The chart updates automatically as you add new months - just keep adding columns and the line extends to show your progress.
Maintaining Your Tracker Monthly
Consistency matters more than frequency. Pick a recurring day - the first of the month, your payday, or any date you’ll remember - and set a calendar reminder. The actual day doesn’t matter as long as you stick with it.
The monthly update process is straightforward:
- Open your spreadsheet
- Add a new column header with the current month (e.g., “Apr 2026” in Column F)
- Update each account balance in the new column
- Verify the formulas calculated correctly (drag them over if needed)
- Close the spreadsheet and move on with your day
After a few months, this becomes automatic. You’ll know exactly which apps to open, which accounts to check, and in what order. Five minutes, once a month, gives you a complete picture of your financial progress.
Common Questions
Should I include my home? Yes - but understand that home equity is illiquid. You can’t easily spend it without selling the house or taking out a loan against it. Some people track both “total net worth” (including home) and “liquid net worth” (excluding home and vehicles) to see both perspectives.
What about vehicles? Include them at current market value, which will be lower than what you paid. Your tracker will show them depreciating over time, which reflects reality. Ignoring vehicle value entirely is also reasonable if you plan to drive it until it’s worthless.
Should I track my net worth if it’s negative? Especially then. The purpose of tracking is to see progress, and progress from -$50,000 to -$40,000 is just as meaningful as progress from $100,000 to $110,000. The number itself is just a starting point.
How detailed should I get? Start simple with one line per account. If you later want more granularity - separating different types of investments, for instance - you can always add rows. It’s easier to add complexity than to maintain it from day one.
Do I need to track every single account? Focus on accounts with meaningful balances. A credit card you pay off monthly and a checking account you rarely use can probably be combined or omitted without affecting your overall picture. The goal is accuracy, not exhaustive accounting.
The Alternative to Building Your Own
Building from scratch takes about 20 minutes and gives you complete control over the structure. You understand exactly how everything works because you built it yourself.
But if you’d rather skip the setup and start with something polished, the Net Worth Tracker has everything ready - categories, formulas, charts, and historical tracking built in. It’s designed to work immediately, with sample data you can replace with your own numbers.
Either approach gets you to the same place: a clear view of your financial position that you update monthly. The spreadsheet is just a tool. The habit of consistent tracking is where the real value lives.
Related Resources
- Financial Planning Template - comprehensive planning with projections and goals
- Net Worth Tracker - dedicated net worth tracking template
- Net Worth Tracker Spreadsheets That Actually Work - comparison of different tracking options